IN THE WINGS
SPRING SUMMER 25
SS25
In The Wings
From the boardroom to the boat, and then, perhaps, most unexpectedly, to the ballroom;
DANIEL w. FLETCHER spring/summer 2025 is a voyage of exploration, of both the familiar and the new for the London designer.
This season’s moodboard is flocked with imagery of 1980s occasionwear — from Savile Row pinstripes to gold-buttoned naval jackets in strictly double-breasted, strong-shouldered cuts. But, so too research of sporting tradition and uniforms to refocus the collection with the designer’s enduring fascination with British dress. Cricket whites transform into evening wear, and rugby-style short-shorts become part of a suit, whilst familiar waxed jackets are rendered in buttery leather instead.
A sense of occasion runs throughout; undoubtedly influenced by Fletcher’s appointment as Creative Director of Royal Ascot, (the first in the British institution’s 300-year history). This is best reflected in his signature corsets which have been reimagined into waistcoats for the season, paired with trousers which take on volume in billowing proportions to bring a contemporary sense to traditional fabrics.
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Elsewhere, Fletcher explores new textiles, more tactile. With dance floor checkerboards in sequins for shirts, and others come with feathers stitched between transparent organzas, falling exposed as the hem descends. Think falling confetti at the end of prom night, with tuxedo jackets unbuttoned and ties hanging loose. Finding beauty in the contrast, this new delicacy in fabrication is juxtaposed with harder fabrics that are stiff in reality and thought, like twills, gabardine and tweed.
A meticulous look to menswear manifests in Oxford shirts with built-in ties seemingly emerging from the collar or taking on new forms when re-contextualised as lightweight jackets. Schoolboy scarves add a louche flair, when thrown over the shoulder and given an unexpected campy feather trim. Suspender-like clips are built in micro shorts and paired with Pantherella monogrammed socks, and skin-tight rugby sweaters and vests are designed with a new step towards an obvious sex appeal.
DANIEL w. FLETCHER spring/summer 2025 reimagines the familiar; of both traditional British dress and Fletcher’s work as a designer. Taking learnings and designs that feel familiar for the label, like the way Britain has dressed for centuries past and asserting them with a bold new sense of elevation.
