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North by Northwest
DANIEL w. FLETCHER’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection sees the designer look to the formative post-war era for inspiration. Tailored shorts paired with sailor-collar jackets made up in fine wool checks and relaxed linens hint to the decade’s establishment of a new approach to menswear, bringing together an enlightened sense of ease and a countercultural look to workwear.
Military inspirations interject the overarching rebellious spirit with pocketed shirts and double-breasted tailoring. Forage caps, long associated with British military personnel, become a defining styling motif for spring/summer 2022, jauntily placed with satin suiting and ribbed knits. The blouson jacket — all sporty in its waist-length silhouette — paired with gingham twin sets and languid shirt-and-tie sets is a key piece for the season.
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With the 1950s at the forefront of his mind, the collection looks to the principles of menswear established during this time. Think denim jackets and matching utilitarian-style jeans, that cooption of workwear as everyday wear, inspired by the Beat movement and their rejection of oppressive suiting and corporate motifs. Fletcher looks to encourage that same freedom found in the post-war movement with this latest offering.
Fletcher admits that it was thoughts and conversations shared with his Scottish grandmother that became a starting point for the season. Born in 1926, she came of age in the post-war era and, as she taught Fletcher to paint, would share stories and photographs of this formative time in her life as the world began to heal and establish new societal patterns and approaches to dress. Hand-painted denim looks to these memories alongside tartans and checkerboard placements.
